Rigging

To post a question or a response or to pass along a tip that has worked for you on your Nor'Sea, please send an e-mail to the Webmaster at marbeth@ix.netcom.com.

Important note: The information here is not warranted. Each writer has contributed his or her own opinions and experience for the benefit of other Nor'Sea owners and does so with the caveat that should you have difficulties implementing these suggestions or as a result of using them, the writer accepts no blame nor offers any warranty or redress. Please proceed at your own risk.

All material here is used by permission. They may be printed out for your own use. They may not be printed out for others or for distribution, however; if you wish to use them for this purpose, separate permissions must be obtained from each writer. Thank you for observing copyright protection.

Differences in Mast Fittings, Re: Lowering the Mast
by Bob Eeg, manufacturer (bobeeg@earthlink.net )
The difference after 1980 is we didn't use a trangular plate on the upper pendant. We used a 'double-D' shackle that nested 2 D shackles.(No big deal) Also, we attached the 'trailing cables' to a diamond padeye on the caprail. (I think-I may be wrong-that some earlier Nor'seas attached to the aft gate.)

Mast Lowering for Trailering or Storage
by Frank Hooper, #16 (fghooper@ix.netcom.com)
On the bow, I used a board 1 1/2" thick, which is supported by the bow rail under it. Using two U bolts, I drilled two holes for the U bolt in each side, inserted the bolt around the bow rail up through the board, and put on a backing plate and wing nuts (aircraft locking nuts also would work). The board also has a trailer roller installed on it; I purchased the roller and bracket at West Marine. Now I can lower the mast to the bow on the roller and roll it backward until the mast rests on the boom gallows. This idea I got from Greg on Guenevere.

I made the boom gallows myself, using a 7' long by 1 1/2"-thick by 7" wide piece of teak ($165). The aft stanchions for the life lines were cut about 3" below top by a friend who owns a metal fab shop. He then machined solid 10' inserts and welded them to the cut-off top, which also had a U-shaped bracket welded onto it for the teak. Look at the picture on the back and inside back cover of the Nor'Sea blue catalog where a woman is taking a sextant reading. I cut the notches with a saber saw then sanded them with a belt sander then a finish sander, varnished it and I was done. I reinstalled it using the aft cabin life line stanchions with O rings between the two parts to waterproof the installation; though I currently don't have to worry about freezing.

I then supported the middle of the mast with a 4x4 cut to the correct height and with two 2x4 ears screwed to the sides of the 4x4 to keep it centered under the mast (or to hold the mast in place). I then reinserted the mast bolt through the 4x4 and the tabernacle.

Mast Raising
by Cliff Peterson, #72 (mindseye77@aol.com)
The following is how Deanna and I raise the mast on Mind's Eye:

1. After arrival at our launch location, the mast is moved forward and the base fastened in the cabin top tabernacle with a through bolt. We have a roller assembly I made to roll the mast upon that is tied to the bow pulpit.

2. The forestay and forward lowers are attached. The upper shrouds are attached, but loose.

3. We have a bridle made of dacron line to minimize stretch. Lines are run fore and aft on each side of the boat to the stanchions from a pivot point on an axis with the mast pivot point.

4. Additional lines are then run up the mast using a slide in the track and the main halyard to about the spreaders. They'll need to be snugged up in a bit.

5. The back stay, 4-part main sheet, and additional dacron bridle lines from the pivot points are attached to the end of the boom. The boom is then lifted into position and bolted into the gooseneck.

6. This is when I snug up everything, making sure the bridle pivot points stay in line with the bolt going through the base of the mast. The bridle up the mast is fairly tight using the mainsheet winch. The bridle on the boom is tightened using the outhaul as tight as I can get it.

7. My wife then winches the mast up using the mainsheet going to one of the self-tailing jib-sheet winches while I steady the mast as it goes up.

8. As soon as the mast is up, I attach the aft lower shrouds and then remove the backstay from the end of the boom and fasten it to the dual cable from the stern.

This is when we sit down and breathe a sigh of relief. There are some other details regarding cabling and tuning that are self-evident that I won't go into.

(Cliff send two drawings, which will be sent up as soon as possible. Not here now because of technical glitches.)

Please address comments or questions about this web page to the Webmaster at marbeth@ix.netcom.com. Last updated December 31, 1997.