Ventilation and Screens
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Screens
by Ed Zacko, #44
1. Bend thin copper tubing to fit interior of portlight. The more care you take, the better the fit.
2. Insert a copper wire into the joint and solder together for a permanent fit.
3. Thoroughly abrade the tubing with sandpaper an degrease with acetone in preparation for step 5.
4. Cut fiberglas screen to overlap the tubing and sew it in place, stretching the screen tight as you go.
5. Attach the screen to the tubing with West Epoxy mixed with a small bit of light filler (not too thick).
6. After the epoxy kicks, cut off the excess screen.
7. Press the screen into the open portlight just far enough for a good fit that does not interfere with operation of the window. The portlight is tapered so if you go too far, the screen will fall out and overboard. Then you can spend your afternoon searching the cold bottom of Horta Habor.
8. Finally, finish off the job with a big of black silicone around the inner perimeter to fill in the minor voids. Ours have lasted for 12 years.
Screens
by Cliff Peterson, #72 (mindseye77@aol.com)
I made a form out of plywood just a little smaller than the opening. Then I cut 1/8" acrylic sheet into 1/2"-wide strips. Heat the strips one at a time in the oven at 250 degrees. Wrap them around the form and hold until stiff; it only takes a few seconds. Glue in cross braces for support with plastic airplane cement. Glue netting on with the same cement. Trimming off the excess netting a little oversized allows the screen to be a friction fit in the opening. We left the screens in all summer on our cruise to Alaska. The portlights could be opened and closed as needed.
Screens
by Martha Beth Lewis, #19 (marbeth@ix.netcom.com)
Here's something that *didn't* work: a commercial screening kit. One was supposed to apply velcro hook part to the screening after it was cut to fit and the loop part around the ports/hatches. As you have guessed, the glue for the loop stuff didn't adhere worth a darn to the varnish. A *lot* of time and a not inconsequential amount of money all wasted.
Screens
by Larry Jackson, #101 (larry.jackson@sosinc.net)
I removed the rubber seal and used a standard screen roller to press in the screen, then replaced the rubber seal. I found a source of commercial-grade surplus neoprene round cord at a surplus store; this works better than the original square hollow rube. I then simply trimmed the excess screen with a razor and glued the rubber in place with silicone. The seal is perfect; the screens are tight and neat.
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Last updated September 1, 1997.